The golden age of Budapest’s famous coffeehouses was at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. Today, we are once again seeing a renaissance of coffeehouse culture — and Budapest remains a city where cafés are deeply connected to everyday life, culture, and history.

Hungarians have always loved their coffee, but cafés here have traditionally been much more than places to drink it. I explore this unique relationship in more detail in my main article, We Love Our Coffee – And Our Coffeehouses, Too, which looks at why coffeehouses have played such an important role in Budapest for generations.

On my Budapest Foodie Tour, we usually visit different historic cafés, giving travelers the chance to enjoy Hungarian coffee and cakes while discovering the stories behind these iconic places.

About the Book Café Budapest

Book Café has always been one of the most special and memorable café spaces in Budapest. Hidden inside a 20th-century department store on Andrássy Avenue, it surprised visitors with a breathtaking historic interior — high ceilings, ornate frescoes, and a grand atmosphere that felt more like a palace than a café.

Sitting in Book Café was an experience in itself. It was the kind of place where you could easily forget time, surrounded by books, elegant architecture, and the quiet hum of conversation. For many visitors, it was one of the most unexpected highlights of Budapest’s café scene.

Unfortunately, both the building and the café are currently closed, and at the moment there is no confirmed reopening date. Although it cannot be visited right now, Book Café remains one of the most talked-about historic café interiors in Budapest and an important part of the city’s coffeehouse heritage.

I sincerely hope that this beautiful space will reopen in the future. Until then, Book Café lives on in memories — and in stories I love to share when talking about Budapest’s rich and ever-evolving coffeehouse culture.

I’m delighted to see how many people explore my beautiful Budapest as part of their river cruise. I know that while on a cruise travellers have very limited time to discover each place.

That’s the reason why I offer Shore Excursions, fully customisable driving and walking tours, so that each and every visitor can make the most of their time in Budapest. I know what the cruise companies offer on their tours, and I’ll make sure I see you much more when you decide to book a private tour with me. The tours include driving and walking tours in both Budapest and the beautiful Hungarian countryside.

Don’t hesitate to get in touch with me for further details or to book a tailor-made tour!

 

This really was a very popular tour but unfortunately the Trabant car is so terribly polluting that I decided to stop it. Now the same tour is available by car, I’m happy to offer the same experience with less impact on the environment.

This was not an easy decision for me, especially after my tour was featured in a French travel TV show but our planet’s and our kids’ future is more important than some business opportunities.

 

I try to publish beautiful pictures of my beautiful Budapest as often as I can, still, I don’t think I reach many people via my Instagram feed. Never mind, this is the selection of my favourite pictures in 2019.

 

Lonely Planet has just published a list of the “Best destinations, journeys and sustainable travel experiences” for 2020. I am very proud, because Budapest is listed among 10 destinations in total, we’re number 2. It’s a great achievement, I only wish they didn’t include “Budapest is one of the most rewarding on your pocket” as I don’t want travellers to visit Budapest because it’s cheap. Come and see my city, because it’s beautiful! 🙂

Nestled just a stone’s throw from St. Stephen’s Basilica on Zrínyi Street, the whimsical Fat Policeman statue—affectionately known as Uncle Karl—stands guard over the cobblestones of the bustling city centre of Budapest. Cast in bronze by sculptor Illyés András and unveiled in 2008, he’s dressed in a nostalgic early‑20th‑century uniform complete with a jaunty helmet and a twirly moustache. His rotund, friendly figure instantly catches the eye, and true to local superstition, his belly has become gloriously polished from the countless tourists who rub it for good luck and loosing weight—and perhaps the gift of guilt-free indulgence in Hungarian cuisine.

This monument is part of my ongoing Statues of Budapest series, which explores how meaning in this city is often hidden in plain sight.

Those seeking romance often reach up to stroke his moustache, a gesture believed to bring good fortune in love. Over the years, his well-worn features have become a testament to thousands of hopeful wishes.

Though officially titled the “Guardian of Order,” the statue’s more playful nickname speaks to its charm and the warm-hearted humor woven into Budapest’s cultural tapestry. Anecdotal measurements suggest he stands about 1.7 m tall—just over five and a half feet—making him approachable and almost lifelike in scale. He’s become a selfie magnet and a lighthearted must-see for visitors wanting to balance architectural grandeur with a bit of street‑art whimsy

By blending nostalgia, folklore, and everyday joy, the Fat Policeman encapsulates the spirit of Budapest: historical depth with a side of light-heartedness. Whether you’re capturing him in a snapshot, giving his belly a good rub, or simply pausing to admire his cheery posture, Uncle Karl offers a delightful pause in the rhythm of urban exploration—and perhaps a sprinkle of good fortune to boot.

Explore more: The 0 km Stone is featured in my Statues of Budapest collection, where famous monuments and easily overlooked details reveal the deeper structure of the city.

The Fat Policeman statue in Budapest, a playful bronze street sculpture
The Fat Policeman statue in Budapest, a playful bronze street sculpture

 

With over 250 tours I delivered last year I can’t tell how fortunate I am to show my travellers around the city and the country I love the most. This is my home, my birthplace and I’m looking forward to introducing it to even more people in 2020!

I’ve just had a look at which my most popular tours were last year:

  • “THE GRAND BUDAPEST” WALK: a great introduction of Budapest to first time visitors or travellers who only have one day to see the main highlights and some of the hidden gems.
  • JEWISH QUARTER WALK: including the visit of the world’s second largest synagogue and a walk in the ghetto which is today the Soho of Budapest with great cultural and creative vibes.
  • BUDAPEST FOODIE TOUR: as I also work for a Hungarian food magazin, I’m really happy to take you to local markets and little artisan food shops and to make sure you taste all the great Hungarian treats.
  • EGER AND WINE TOUR BY CAR: we love our wines and we love our wine countries, Eger, the postcard-like Baroque little town is famous for the Bull’s Blood, the great Hungarian red wine. 
  • A DAY IN TOKAJ WINE COUNTRY: another day trip, another tour to a beautiful wine region. I love Tokaj and the Tokaj wines and I hope that my travellers who picked this tour in 2019 loved it just as much as I did.