Vác is a cute little town on the left bank of the Danube, it’s some 25 minutes drive from Budapest. The visit of Vác can be included in a customised Danube Bend day trip. It’s such a beautiful Baroque jewellery box, I strongly recommend a short visit. We had been fortunate to tour Vác with my travellers before the borders of Hungary got closed again on the 1st of September.

The mummified remains of 265 people were found in 1994 in the crypt of the Dominican church, they had been laid to rest in hand painted, wooden coffins in the 18th and 19th centuries. The bodies didn’t decompose but were mummified naturally because of the favourable air conditions and dry settings.

The findings were extraordinary and not only because it’s a veritable gold mine for ethnographers about 18th century Hungarian everyday life and funeral traditions. It’s also a fantastic source for medical researches, a large number of tests have been performed by scientists on the mummified remains related to tuberculosis, HIV researches and they could also confirm C section had been performed as early as in the 18th century in Hungary.

The coffins are simply beautiful, all colourful, all hand-painted, all prepared with a lot of care, it’s very much like the fascinating celebration of life and death in a small Vác museum.

 

 

I’m a huge admirer of the Hungarian Art Nouveau movement, and I’m always proud to show travellers some of Budapest’s most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings. For me, the former home of György Ráth, the first director of the Museum of Applied Arts, is a true jewellery box — both the building itself and the artworks and furniture on display are absolutely unique.

Originally built as the Ráth family home, the villa today houses the permanent exhibition “Art Nouveau – A Hungarian Perspective.” Every room feels different, yet perfectly harmonious. The furniture, textiles, ceramics, and artworks were selected and arranged with such care that visiting the villa feels like stepping into the private world of a cultured, well-travelled family.

Walking through the rooms is an intimate experience — like visiting an elderly relative whose home is filled with authentic objects, each telling its own story. Nothing feels staged or distant; everything feels lived-in, warm, and deeply personal.

Tips for your Ráth György Villa Visit

When visiting the villa, don’t forget to take a walk along Városligeti fasor, one of Budapest’s most elegant avenues, lined with fascinating Art Nouveau villas. It’s the perfect continuation of the experience and an often-overlooked highlight of the City Park area.

If you’re fascinated by Art Nouveau, this villa is a beautiful stop to include in a custom Art Nouveau walking tour of Budapest.

 

I’ve been neglecting these last few weeks that old passion of mine to collect the sounds of Budapest, recording local music all over the city. This is part 2 of the series, stay tuned for the rest of my Beautiful Budapest Symphony!

One of the most impressive statues in Budapest is the King Matthias Fountain, located in the Royal Palace of the Buda Castle District. Monumental, theatrical, and rich in symbolism, it portrays King Matthias — Hungary’s great Renaissance ruler — in a moment of triumph and drama.

This fountain is part of my ongoing Statues of Budapest series, which explores how monuments tell stories far beyond what first meets the eye.

A king on the hunt

At the centre of the composition stands King Matthias, depicted during a hunt. It is a traditional symbol of royal power, leadership, and control over nature. Surrounded by courtiers and hunting dogs, the scene feels almost cinematic, carved in stone against the walls of the palace.

The statue reflects how Matthias wished to be remembered: strong, charismatic, and unquestionably king.

A hidden love story

Look more closely, and the fountain reveals a second narrative. At the lower level of the composition stands a young woman, often identified as Ilonka, a figure from Hungarian folklore. According to legend, she fell in love with the king without knowing his true identity.

This quiet, almost melancholic detail adds emotional depth to the monument. It transforms the fountain from a celebration of power into a layered story of love. It’s about longing, and human vulnerability — a reminder that even great kings were not untouched by romance.

Where history and storytelling meet

Set within the Buda Castle complex, the Matthias Fountain is impossible to ignore, yet many visitors miss its deeper meaning. It perfectly represents how Budapest uses public art to combine history, legend, and national identity in a single visual narrative.

If you’d like to uncover more stories like this — including the legends behind the statues and the lives of the people they depict — this fountain is one of the highlights I often discuss on my Buda Castle walk, where history becomes personal and alive.

Explore more: King Matthias is featured in my broader Statues of Budapest collection, showcasing the city’s most meaningful monuments and hidden details.

The Matthias Fountain depicting King Matthias at the Royal Palace in Buda Castle, Budapest
The Matthias Fountain depicting King Matthias at the Royal Palace in Buda Castle, Budapest