Szentkút – the Holy Fountain

We visited this cute little village last week as it was part of a family research I was working on for my guests arriving from Australia. I’ve never been to Szentkút before but I’m very much impressed by this enormous pilgrimage site, it’s just too bad it was deserted this part of the year. I understand it’s much more crowded in August when open air masses are held for hundreds of thousands of people.

The fountains have been famous for their healing power for some 700 years now and is declared a National Shrine since 2006.

 

 

Hungarian dishes: Székelykáposzta, cabbage stew a la Székely (with recipe)

The Hungarian “Székelykáposzta” is a great dish combining sauerkraut and pork stew, a nice meal to warm your body and soul on a cool day.

Drain 2.2 pound sauerkraut in a colander, rinse it gently under cold water and let it sit in the colander for a few minutes. Put half of the cabbage in a large saucepan, put in 1.3 pound diced pork rib and cover with the other half of the cabbage. Add 4 bay leafs and water to cover it and cook gently for 2 hours on low.

Heat 5.25 oz lard in a large saucepan on medium heat. Toss in 2 large chopped onions, cook them with a pinch of salt until they soften up. Remove saucepan from heat, stir in 3 teaspoon paprika powder with the onions until they’re fully coated. Put the saucepan back on the heat, turn it up to medium-high, and add 1.3 pound diced pork shoulder or leg. Cook until all the meat has browned. Once the meat is browned, add 1 tablespoon paprika paste or cream, 1 large chopped tomato and 1 diced bell pepper. Pour in water until it covers the meat, bring it up to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook slightly uncovered stirring occasionally for about 90 minutes.

Pour the pork stew in the cabbage stew, cook on medium low for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Heat 1 tablespoon lard in a small saucepan on medium high. Add 2 tablespoon flour, stir until it’s browned, add 1 teaspoon paprika powder. Add 1 cup cold water, mix it and add the flour mixture to the cabbage. Add half of the sour cream, bring it up to a simmer.

You can serve the cabbage dish with the other half of the sour cream.

Sopron, the “most loyal” Hungarian town

Located near the Austrian border, Sopron has quickly become one of my guests’ most loved day-trip destinations in western Hungary — and it’s easy to see why. Rich in medieval heritage and elegant Baroque architecture, Sopron is a beautifully preserved town that feels both intimate and historically layered.

After guiding several tours in northern Hungary, Sopron naturally became part of my Győr and Sopron private tour, combining two of the region’s most charming historic towns in one memorable itinerary.

Why Sopron Is Called “The Most Loyal Town”

Sopron is often referred to as Hungary’s “most loyal” town, a title earned after World War I. When two-thirds of Hungary’s territory were detached from the country, Sopron’s citizens were offered Austrian citizenship in a referendum.

In 1921, the people of Sopron voted to remain Hungarian — a decision that is still commemorated every year and remains a strong part of the town’s identity and local pride.

Medieval Churches and the Iconic Fire Tower

A guided walk through Sopron reveals architectural treasures from multiple eras. Highlights include:

  • 13th-century churches featuring Romanesque and Gothic elements

  • the iconic Fire Tower, the symbol of the town since the 17th century

  • elegant 18th-century Baroque townhouses lining narrow streets and hidden courtyards

From the top of the Fire Tower, visitors are rewarded with panoramic views over Sopron’s rooftops and the surrounding countryside.

Kings, Composers, and Roman Roots

Sopron’s streets have hosted remarkable historical figures. During the tour, you’ll see:

  • where Matthias Corvinus stayed while besieging Vienna in 1482

  • buildings associated with concerts given by Franz Liszt in the 19th century

Beneath the medieval and Baroque layers lie even older foundations. Sopron was built on the remains of a Roman settlement, and visitors can still see the ruins of the ancient Roman town hall and market, offering a fascinating glimpse into the city’s earliest past.

Visiting Sopron on a Private Tour

Sopron is an ideal destination for travelers interested in:

  • medieval and Baroque architecture

  • Hungarian history beyond Budapest

  • quiet, walkable historic towns

  • meaningful countryside experiences

It pairs perfectly with a visit to Győr, making the Győr and Sopron tour a well-balanced journey through western Hungary’s cultural highlights.

 

 

A Must-See in Budapest: Memento Park

Budapest Memento Park is one of the most unusual and thought-provoking attractions in Budapest. Often described as an exhibition “in the shadow of Stalin’s boots,” this open-air museum offers a powerful insight into Hungary’s Communist past and the ideology that shaped public life for decades.

A visit here is not just about statues — it’s about understanding history, memory, and how societies deal with difficult legacies.

Why Memento Park Exists

After the political changes of 1989, Communist monuments were removed from Budapest’s streets. For many Hungarians, these statues were painful reminders of dictatorship, oppression, and the cult of personality surrounding Communist leaders.

While some locals supported destroying them altogether, a different solution was chosen. Selected monuments were relocated to a dedicated statue park in the 22nd district of Budapest, where they could be recontextualized rather than erased.

The conceptual designer of the park famously stated that the park is not about the statues or the sculptors, but rather a critique of the ideology that used monumental art as a symbol of absolute power.

Monumental Art and Communist Ideology

Walking through Memento Park, visitors encounter statues that once dominated public squares — heroic figures meant to be admired and obeyed by the proletariat. The exaggerated scale and dramatic poses reflect the monumentality of Communist-era art, whose purpose was to create new political idols.

One of the most striking symbols is the pair of Stalin’s boots, all that remains of a gigantic statue torn down during the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. The boots have since become one of the park’s most iconic and haunting images.

A Personal Perspective

I remember many of these statues standing on Budapest’s streets. They even had nicknames, and people created ironic or humorous stories about them — subtle acts of resistance in a tightly controlled society.

During my Communist and thematic tours, I love sharing these personal memories alongside historical context. I explain:

  • why certain monuments were removed

  • how propaganda worked through public art

  • what everyday life was like under Communism

  • and why Memento Park remains relevant today

Although the Communist era officially ended over three decades ago, its legacy is still close enough to feel personal — and far enough away to be examined critically.

Visiting Memento Park Today

A visit to Memento Park is especially rewarding for travelers interested in:

  • 20th-century European history

  • life behind the Iron Curtain

  • political symbolism and propaganda

  • alternative, off-the-beaten-path sights in Budapest

It’s a powerful addition to a Budapest Communist tour and a place that often sparks meaningful conversations long after the visit ends.

Hungarian Wines: Discover the Villány Wine Region

Often considered the most beautiful wine region in Hungary, the Villány Wine Region is famous for its high-quality red and rosé wines, scenic vineyard-covered hills, and outstanding wineries. Located in southern Hungary, Villány is the country’s leading destination for wine tourism and a perfect addition to a Pécs and Villány day tour.

Hungary’s Premier Red Wine Destination

At the heart of the region lies the Villány Wine Trail (Villányi Borút), the first official wine route in Hungary, created to showcase local producers, cellars, and traditions.

If you’d like to explore this region in depth, the Pécs and Villány Tour by Car offers an ideal combination of culture, history, and wine.

Climate and Geography: Ideal Conditions for Wine

The Villány wine region covers approximately 1,800 hectares and enjoys a sub-Mediterranean climate, unusual in Hungary. Summers are hot, winters are mild, and the area benefits from abundant sunshine throughout the year.

The southernmost mountain range of Hungary shelters the vineyards from cool northern winds, creating optimal conditions for ripening grapes — especially red varieties.

A Wine Region with Ancient Roots

Archaeological excavations show that the Romans cultivated grapes here over 2,000 years ago. Hungarian winemaking in the area likely began as early as the 11th century, around the 1060s.

Villány experienced its first golden age in the early 19th century, following the arrival of German settlers. They introduced advanced agricultural techniques and new grape varieties, including Kékoportó, which remains one of the region’s signature grapes today.

From Nationalization to Modern Excellence

During the second half of the 20th century, Villány’s vineyards were nationalized. Large-scale, quantity-focused production left a visible legacy: wide vine rows and low-density plantations designed for heavy machinery.

Today, these contrast clearly with privately owned vineyards, where quality-driven, small-scale production dominates. The revival of craftsmanship and terroir-focused winemaking has played a key role in Villány’s international success.

Villány Grape Varieties and Wines

The Villány wine region is best known for its structured reds, but also produces elegant whites. Key grape varieties include:

  • Kékoportó

  • Kékfrankos

  • Cabernet Sauvignon

  • Hárslevelű

  • Italian Riesling

  • Leányka

Award-Winning Winemakers

Villány winemakers are among the most successful in Hungary, frequently earning top honors at national and international wine competitions. Local producers and cellars have received the titles “Wine Producer of the Year” and “Wine Cellar of the Year” on multiple occasions — clear proof of the region’s prestige.

Visiting Villány on a Private Tour

Villány pairs beautifully with a visit to Pécs, one of Hungary’s most atmospheric historic cities. Together, they create a perfect wine, culture, and gastronomy experience in southern Hungary.

The Pécs and Villány wine tour is ideal for travelers interested in:

  • Hungarian wines and winemaking traditions

  • Scenic countryside and vineyard landscapes

  • Boutique wineries and cellar visits

 

Hungarian dishes: The Goulash soup (with recipe)

The most known Hungarian dish is probably the Goulash soup, it’s served with fresh white bread and is a real treat. Find below the recipe, and let me know if you need recommendations about where you can get the best Goulash in Budapest or in Hungary.

In a large soup pot over medium heat saute 2, finely chopped onions in 2 tablespoons lard (or vegetable oil), stirring frequently until lightly browned, don’t let them brown. Add salt and 2 tablespoons of paprika (you can avoid getting the paprika burnt by adding the paprika while the pot is not over heat, stirring it for a few seconds).

Turn the heat high and add beef cubes (2,2 pounds beef chuck roast, tenderloin or sirloin, chopped into 1 inch * 1 inch cubes), stir for 3 minutes until the meat is seared on all sides. Let the meat simmer in its own juice while adding ½ teaspoon caraway seeds, some salt, ground black pepper and 1 bay leaf, pour enough water to cover the content of the pan and let it simmer on low heat, until the meat is almost tender (1,5 – 2 hours), add water if necessary to keep it 1 inch above the level of the meat.

Add 1 bunch parsley, 1 tablespoon tomato paste and vegetables (peeled and cut into ½ inch pieces): 4 carrots, 2 parsley roots, 4 medium potatoes. Add 2 or 3 cups of water (or beef broth) to keep a soup consistency. Add salt if desired. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30-40 minutes until the meat is tender.

Serve with freshly made spatzle/spatzel.

A beautiful day touring Eger and the Eger wine country

We’re just back from another great countryside tour, a beautiful day touring Eger and the Eger wine country. The Eger Castle witnessed the extreme courage and patriotism of its defenders who withstood the Ottomans’ 5-week-long siege in 1542.

We started by discovering Eger’s Basilica and the University, which is home to the Camera Obscura, Eger’s Eye, probably the most interesting thing in town. There are only 3 camera obscuras around the world, it’s so much fun to spy on what’s going on around the city.

We took a pleasant walk in the old town and tasted some Lángos, which was delicious. We visited the castle, the scene of the fight in 1552, I was telling stories from ‘The eclipse of the crescent moon’, a Hungarian novel about the great victory of the Hungarian defenders of the Eger Castle.

After visiting the local wine museum in the afternoon we drove to the Valley of the Beautiful Women and tasted the best red and white wines of the Eger wine country.

Herend Porcelain: Visiting Hungary’s World-Famous Porcelain Factory

One of Hungary’s Most Famous Crafts

Hungary is internationally renowned for its porcelain production, and Herend porcelain is without doubt its most prestigious name. Founded nearly 200 years ago, the Herend Porcelain Factory continues to produce exquisite, hand-painted porcelain admired by collectors and royal households worldwide.

The factory is located in the small village of Herend, near Veszprém, making it a wonderful cultural stop on a countryside journey or a Lake Balaton tour.

A Porcelain Loved by Royalty

Herend porcelain has won numerous awards at international exhibitions. Its most famous moment came at the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations, where a beautifully decorated dinner set caught the attention of Queen Victoria.

She ordered a full porcelain service for herself, and the pattern was named “Viktória” in her honour — a design that remains one of Herend’s most iconic collections today.

Visiting the Herend Porcelain Museum

A visit to the Herend Porcelain Museum offers a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at how these delicate masterpieces are created.

One of the highlights is the Mini-Manufactory, where visitors can follow each step of the production process through a series of rooms:

  • preparation of plaster casts

  • shaping and piercing the porcelain

  • delicate flower making

  • hand-painting and gilding techniques

Seeing the artisans at work truly brings home why Herend porcelain is considered a luxury craft rather than mass production.

Coffee or Tea Served in Herend Porcelain

After the museum visit, guests are invited to enjoy a coffee or tea served in genuine Herend porcelain — a charming and memorable detail that perfectly completes the experience.

Including Herend in a Private Tour

I’m happy to include a Herend Porcelain Factory visit as part of:

The Herend visit pairs beautifully with historic towns, scenic viewpoints, and wine or food stops around Lake Balaton. If you’re interested in Hungarian craftsmanship, history, and elegant traditions, Herend is an unforgettable stop.

 

 

Day Trip to Bratislava from Budapest

A day trip to Bratislava from Budapest is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to explore another European capital while staying in Hungary. Located just two hours away by car, Bratislava is compact, walkable, and full of history. It is also the only capital city in Europe that borders two countries — Hungary and Austria — making it a perfect addition to a Central European itinerary.

We started our day at Slavín Memorial, a powerful monument dedicated to the liberation of Slovakia in April 1945. From there, we enjoyed a relaxed walk up to Bratislava Castle, often described as looking like an upside-down table — its four towers resembling sturdy table legs.

Although the castle was largely destroyed by fire over 200 years ago, the panoramic views from the hilltop over the city and the Danube are absolutely worth it.

Next came the joy of wandering through Bratislava Old Town — full of narrow streets, pastel façades, and lively squares. We visited St. Martin’s Cathedral, once the coronation church of Hungarian kings, and admired the elegant Primatial Palace, famously topped with a giant cardinal’s hat.

Bratislava’s playful side reveals itself through its quirky street statues:

  • Čumil (the Man at Work)
  • the sneaky Paparazzo
  • and even Napoleon Bonaparte’s soldier resting casually on a bench

We wrapped up the day with a traditional Slovak lunch on the main square, soaking in the easygoing atmosphere before heading back to Budapest.

Bratislava is compact, elegant, and full of surprises — an ideal addition to a Vienna–Bratislava itinerary or a memorable standalone day trip.

 

Hungarian Wines – the Etyek-Buda Wine Region

Etyek–Buda Wine Region is often referred to as Budapest’s vineyard, thanks to its close proximity to the Hungarian capital. Although the wine region was officially established in 1997, local wine production dates back to the Middle Ages, making Etyek one of Hungary’s most historic yet forward-looking wine areas.

A Terroir Made for Freshness and Elegance

The defining feature of the Etyek–Buda Wine Region is its calcareous clay soil, which gives the wines their signature freshness and vibrant acidity. Combined with the region’s clean ecological environment and cool climate, these conditions make Etyek particularly well suited for crisp white wines and high-quality sparkling wines.

It’s no coincidence that Etyek has become one of Hungary’s most important centres for traditional-method sparkling wine production.

The Wines of Etyek

Etyek wines are known for their lightness, precision, and lively character. The most important grape varieties of the region include:

  • Chardonnay

  • Sauvignon Blanc

  • Pinot Gris

These grapes thrive in the local terroir, producing elegant, aromatic wines with refreshing acidity.

Red wines remain relatively rare, but curious wine lovers can still discover interesting Pinot Noir and small quantities of Cabernet, offering a different perspective on the region’s potential.

Sparkling Wine: Etyek’s Signature Style

One of the greatest strengths of the Etyek–Buda Wine Region is its exceptional suitability for sparkling wine production. The region’s cool climate, limestone-rich soils, and naturally high acidity create ideal conditions for traditional-method sparkling wines. Grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are harvested early to preserve freshness, resulting in elegant, crisp sparkling wines with fine bubbles and vibrant structure. Today, Etyek is widely regarded as Hungary’s leading sparkling wine region, supplying base wines for some of the country’s most respected producers.

Meet the Winemakers of Etyek

One of the greatest charms of Etyek lies in its welcoming, family-run wineries. Local winemakers are known not only for their wines, but also for their hospitality. Visits often include generous tastings and, in many cases, a simple, seasonal lunch made with local ingredients.

This personal connection between winemaker and visitor is what makes Etyek such a rewarding destination.

Explore Etyek on a Guided Wine Tour

Thanks to its location just outside Budapest, Etyek is perfect for a half-day or full-day escape into the countryside.

You can experience the region on my Etyek Tour with Wine Tasting, focusing on local wineries, vineyards, and sparkling wines — or combine it with Budapest’s culinary scene on the Budapest Food Tour & Etyek Wine Tour, a more immersive experience that connects city flavours with rural winemaking traditions.

Why Visit the Etyek–Buda Wine Region?

Etyek offers a unique contrast to Hungary’s larger wine regions:

  • Close to Budapest, yet deeply rural

  • Historic, yet innovative

  • Relaxed, personal, and refreshingly elegant

For wine lovers seeking authentic Hungarian wines without long travel times, Etyek is an ideal choice. Do not hesitate to let me know if you are interested in a local tour!

 

 

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