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Trianon Memorial Budapest – a delicate subject I’m happy to discuss privately

The Trianon Memorial of Budapest (also known as the Memorial of National Unity or Solidarity / Nemzeti Összetartozás Emlékhelye) was inaugurated in 2020 to mark the 100th anniversary of the treaty signed at the Grand Trianon Palace in Versailles on June 4, 1920. I’ve hesitated to write about it because it’s deeply personal for many—and it often comes up on my Communist Budapest private walking tours. This post shares my perspective and invites respectful conversation in a private tour setting.

Quick context: What the Treaty of Trianon meant for Hungary

After World War I, Hungary lost about two-thirds of its pre-war territory and a significant portion of its ethnic Hungarian population found themselves outside the new borders. From the early 1920s, Hungarian politics frequently pursued revision of the settlement—one of several factors that later aligned the country with the wrong side in World War II. Whether the treaty was “fair” is still passionately debated today; what’s clear is the enduring emotional impact.

Where it is and what you’ll see

You’ll find the memorial on Kossuth Lajos Square, directly across from the Hungarian Parliament. The design is dark and somber: a roughly 100-meter descending passage with the names of thousands of Hungarian towns and villages that were once part of the country, engraved into metal panels. It’s intentionally austere and heavy—a place of mourning rather than celebration.

My take (with respect for all viewpoints)

• What I value: The comprehensive roll call of place-names makes history tangible. It’s powerful to recognize communities by name rather than abstract numbers.

• What I struggle with: The design ends in a dead end. As a guide and as a Hungarian, I believe our history is a continuum—we carry loss, but we also move forward. I miss a visual cue of continuity or hope. Our story did not end in 1920.

I share this not to settle the debate, but to explain why the memorial can feel emotionally closed to some visitors while profoundly validating to others.

Practical visiting tips

• Location: Kossuth Lajos tér (M2 metro: Kossuth Lajos tér)

• Cost: Free, open air

• When to go: Early morning or at dusk for quieter reflection and softer light

• Accessibility: The passage is gently sloped but still below street level; take care in wet weather

Want to unpack this topic with context and care?

This subject is complex and sensitive. On my private Communist Budapest walking tour, we create space for thoughtful questions about Trianon, interwar politics, memory culture, and how these narratives shaped the communist period and everyday life. If you’d like a respectful, nuanced discussion tailored to your interests, I’m happy to guide it.

Book a private tour

Send me your preferred date and interests, and I’ll suggest an itinerary starting from Kossuth Lajos Square or your hotel.

FAQs

Is the Trianon Memorial political?
It’s a site of memory, and like many memorials, it’s read through different political and personal lenses. That’s part of why it’s controversial.

Why “Trianon” if it happened in Versailles?
The treaty defining Hungary’s new borders was signed in the Grand Trianon Palace, part of the Versailles complex—hence “Treaty of Trianon.”

Is it suitable for children?
Yes, with context. The design and subject matter are somber; older children often engage well with the historical discussion.

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High above the Danube, on Gellért Hill, stands one of Budapest’s most poetic and quietly emotional statues: Prince Buda and Princess Pest. Unlike grand monuments celebrating power or victory, this sculpture tells a story of distance, longing, and separation.

This statue is part of my ongoing Statues of Budapest series, which explores how the city expresses its history and identity through symbolism rather than spectacle.

A love divided by the river

Prince Buda and Princess Pest represent the two historic halves of the city, once separated by the Danube River. In the statue, they face each other — close enough to see one another, yet permanently apart.

The story is often interpreted as a sad love tale, but it also reflects Budapest’s geography and history: two cities growing side by side, divided by water until their unification in the 19th century.

Where can you find the statue?

The sculpture is located on Gellért Hill, near the Garden of Philosophy, a peaceful and contemplative area overlooking the city. The setting adds to the statue’s emotional tone — quiet, reflective, and slightly removed from the bustle below.

Many visitors walk past without realizing the meaning behind the figures, yet once you know the story, it’s difficult to see them as anything other than symbols of the city itself.

Why this statue matters

Prince Buda and Princess Pest are not historical figures, but they express something deeply real: Budapest’s identity as a city shaped by division, connection, and eventual unity.

It’s a reminder that some of the city’s most meaningful statues are not the most famous ones — but those that quietly echo its soul.

Explore more: This statue is part of my Statues of Budapest collection, featuring famous monuments and hidden gems across Buda and Pest.

On the very last day of the year after the very last virtual tour of the year I’m wishing you a very happy new year from my Beautiful Budapest. I hope all your dreams come true in 2021! #budapest #beautifulbudapest#tourguide #travelguide #virtualtour#happynewyear #BUEK#boldogujevet #2021

In the early 20th century fuel and lighting gas used in Hungary was manufactured from coal and because of the increasing consumption there was a need for modern, high capacity gas plants. The location of the gas plants was crucial, as they needed road, rail and waterway connection. The Óbuda Gas Works was inaugurated in 1914, it was the most advanced gas factory of the country producing 250 thousand cubic meters of gas every day. In the 1970’s natural gas became more accessible and cheaper and Budapest switched to natural gas. The Óbuda gas works was decommissioned in 1984.

The factory with its great colours and shapes might remind you of an abandoned castle with its four towers, they originally housed the turbines, control rooms and water towers.

What I personally love about the place is that because of the generosity of the original owners of the factory, residential buildings had also been built for the employees, so that they could live close to their workplace. Two locations were created, a villa neighbourhood for managers and a more simple housing estate for the workers. Walking around the early 20th century buildings is like a real time travel.

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Located on the edge of Budapest’s elegant Palace Quarter, Wenckheim Palace is one of those places that often surprises visitors. Just steps away from busy streets, it offers a calm, richly decorated interior that feels worlds apart from the surrounding city—and that’s exactly what makes it so special.

Built in 1889, the palace was commissioned by Count Frigyes Wenckheim and his wife, Krisztina Wenckheim, and designed by architect Artúr Meinig. The Neo-Baroque exterior gives way to lavish interiors decorated in Louis XV style, reflecting the wealth and refined taste of Budapest’s late-19th-century aristocracy. At the time, Wenckheim Palace was considered one of the most beautiful private residences of the 8th district.

The highlight of the building is its magnificent ballroom. Spacious, light-filled, and richly ornamented, it could easily accommodate up to 500 guests. The Wenckheim family was known for their elegant receptions and social events, welcoming members of the political and aristocratic elite—including Franz Joseph, Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary.

After Count Wenckheim’s death in 1912, the palace was sold to the city in 1927, and a few years later it began a new chapter. In 1931, it became the central building of the Budapest Metropolitan Library. Today, this unique function allows visitors to experience an authentic aristocratic interior while the building remains very much part of everyday Budapest life.

One of the palace’s great advantages is accessibility. The main halls can usually be visited during library opening hours. That said, occasional closures do happen due to filming, special events, or the summer break.

Good to Know Before You Go

• Easy access: Wenckheim Palace can usually be visited during the opening hours of the Budapest Metropolitan Library, making it one of the easiest historic palaces to see from the inside without advance booking.

• Best timing: Late mornings or early afternoons on weekdays are usually the quietest, offering the best chance to enjoy the interiors without crowds.

• Possible closures: Parts of the palace may occasionally be closed due to filming, special events, or during the summer school break—worth keeping in mind if this is a highlight of your visit.

• Photography: Discreet photography is generally allowed, but flash and tripods are not.

• Who it’s ideal for: A great stop for visitors interested in architecture, film locations, libraries, or travellers looking for an elegant yet relaxed indoor visit.

• How to include it: Wenckheim Palace fits naturally into a Palace Quarter walk or can be combined with nearby sights on a longer city tour.

Wenckheim Palace is also a popular filming location. Its interiors have appeared in several international productions, including Red Sparrow, The Alienist, Spy, and The Phantom of the Opera.

Elegant yet approachable, central yet surprisingly peaceful, Wenckheim Palace is an excellent stop on a Budapest walking or driving tour—especially for visitors interested in architecture, film locations, or simply experiencing a lesser-known side of the city’s aristocratic past.

If you enjoy discovering the stories behind Budapest’s buildings, you might also like my Beautiful Budapest Stories piece on Wenckheim Palace, where I focus more on atmosphere and hidden details.

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The Budapest home of Liszt is surprisingly modest with only two rooms, one of them serving as bedroom and study at the same time but it’s nevertheless full of treasures. The Budapest home of the one and only Hungarian composer universally renowned as one of the greatests of the 19th century was on the elegant Andrássy avenue.

His home is a museum now and it’s a remarkably valuable collection of objects: personal items and amazing instruments of music. My favourite piece is a music composing desk with a built-in three-octave piano keyboard, specially designed for Liszt in the 1870’s. I also love the ornate music stand that Liszt received as a gift in 1858 and thanked it by saying: “I wish to produce soon some works worthy of being offered as an homage to the three patrons of music: Beethoven, Weber and Schubert” – whose busts decorate the wonderful piece.

Although Liszt only welcomed visitors in his home on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday afternoons, the museum is open to visitors every day except Sundays.

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At first glance, the 0 km Stone is easy to miss. Modest in size and quietly placed near one of Budapest’s busiest areas, it doesn’t compete for attention — yet symbolically, it represents the very center of the country.

This monument is part of my ongoing Statues of Budapest series, which explores how meaning in this city is often hidden in plain sight.

What does the 0 km Stone represent?

The 0 km Stone marks the point from which all road distances in Hungary are officially measured. Every kilometer sign pointing toward Budapest begins here, making this small monument a geographic and symbolic reference point for the entire country.

It is less about spectacle and more about orientation — a reminder of how Budapest has long functioned as Hungary’s political, cultural, and infrastructural heart.

Where can you find it?

The statue is located on the Buda side of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, close to the Buda Castle Funicular. Thousands of people pass by daily on their way to the Castle District, often without realizing the significance of the stone beneath their feet.

Once you know what it represents, it becomes one of those details you can never quite ignore again.

Why the 0 km Stone matters

Unlike statues that commemorate people or events, the 0 km Stone symbolizes connection and movement. It quietly links every town, village, and road back to Budapest — and by extension, to one another.

It’s a simple monument, but one that reflects how geography, history, and everyday life intersect in the city.

Explore more: The 0 km Stone is featured in my Statues of Budapest collection, where famous monuments and easily overlooked details reveal the deeper structure of the city.

Ok, the timing might not be ideal. But. I originally created a Facebook profile for my tour guiding services some 5 years ago but I never really had time to take care of it and to publish enough interesting content. Now that I only deliver virtual tours obviously I have more time to work on my tours and profiles and uploaded some pictures and information.

I’ll try to post as often as I can so that you can learn more on my beautiful city and country:

• Facebook

Please like, share, comment, send me messages, so that I can see that you’re checking back on what’s new in Beautiful Budapest!

I know that these last 3-4 months have been extremely difficult for many of us. I delivered my first virtual tour on the 20th of March and haven’t had a real, live tour ever since. I love virtual tours and I think travellers that booked any of them all had a very special experience.

But. I need personal connection, I need instant reactions, I need to see and hear my travellers.

As of last Wednesday our borders are open to the citizens of the EU and some other countries. I don’t see many actual tourists yet but hopefully this will change soon. It was time for me to create my Social Distancing Tours.

Rules are very simple:

• Tours are maximum 3 hours long
• Only walking and driving tours are available, we don’t use public transportation
• Travellers, tour guide (and driver) are required to wear a mask for the length of the tour
• No inside visit of the monuments, attractions, museums
• No coffee or lunch break together
• Maximum number of travellers on the tour shouldn’t exceed 4 people

I hope I’ll have the chance to finally meet real people and to show them around the city that I love the most. I hope that this is just the beginning and very slowly life will get back to normal, if you still remember what normal is 🙂

The golden age of Budapest’s famous coffeehouses was at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. Today, we are once again seeing a renaissance of coffeehouse culture — and Budapest remains a city where cafés are deeply connected to everyday life, culture, and history.

Hungarians have always loved their coffee, but cafés here have traditionally been much more than places to drink it. I explore this unique relationship in more detail in my main article, We Love Our Coffee – And Our Coffeehouses, Too, which looks at why coffeehouses have played such an important role in Budapest for generations.

On my Budapest Foodie Tour, we usually visit different historic cafés, giving travelers the chance to enjoy Hungarian coffee and cakes while discovering the stories behind these iconic places.

About the Book Café Budapest

Book Café has always been one of the most special and memorable café spaces in Budapest. Hidden inside a 20th-century department store on Andrássy Avenue, it surprised visitors with a breathtaking historic interior — high ceilings, ornate frescoes, and a grand atmosphere that felt more like a palace than a café.

Sitting in Book Café was an experience in itself. It was the kind of place where you could easily forget time, surrounded by books, elegant architecture, and the quiet hum of conversation. For many visitors, it was one of the most unexpected highlights of Budapest’s café scene.

Unfortunately, both the building and the café are currently closed, and at the moment there is no confirmed reopening date. Although it cannot be visited right now, Book Café remains one of the most talked-about historic café interiors in Budapest and an important part of the city’s coffeehouse heritage.

I sincerely hope that this beautiful space will reopen in the future. Until then, Book Café lives on in memories — and in stories I love to share when talking about Budapest’s rich and ever-evolving coffeehouse culture.

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This is a really great experience, cooking with all of you online, teaching you how to prepare the best Hungarian dishes. I can’t remember the last time I used as much paprika as I did these last couple of weeks.

Thank you everyone for booking this tour with me and thank you for your enthusiasm! Also, I’m grateful for the inspirations, that’s why I was able to add more recipes. Now we can make together Flódni, which is probably the most famous Hungarian-Jewish cake with four delicious layers: poppy seed, walnut, plum jam and apple.

I’m also looking forward to cook more vegetable and cold fruit soups the next couple of weeks. Book a tour now, so that you can enjoy the great Hungarian dishes!

As of today there are 3892 COVID-19 cases in Hungary and 527 people died. This means that the numbers haven’t increased much since the restrictions were lifted about two weeks ago.

That’s again a very good sign showing that hopefully we might leave the pandemic behind us soon and we can start travelling again. Fingers crossed 🙂

It’s also safe to say that Hungary and the neighbouring countries were not as badly affected as other European countries, it might be safer to travel to Hungary than to Italy, France or England. And of course, private tours are much safer than any other group tour.

Restaurants and bars, most of the shops reopened but the touristy places are still deserted and it literally breaks my heart. It’s so sad to see that places that are usually packed with people talking a hundred different languages are practically empty even now.

I don’t know when travel bans will be lifted and when tourists can finally come to my beautiful Budapest but I’m very optimistic and excited. Also, I’m putting together the social distancing tours, they will be uploaded once travelling is safe again. In the meantime, I’m still offering my popular virtual tours.

The Buda Castle District – truly beautiful rain or shine.

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We’ve been in self isolation for 9 weeks and I have to admit it’s a very long time. But it’s over for now, restrictions are lifted, shops, public areas, parks, restaurants and cafés reopened. We can even go to outdoor swimming pools, museums and the zoo, too. Social distancing measures will continue to apply and it remains compulsory to wear a mask in shops and on public transport in Budapest.

As of today the number of COVID-19 cases in Hungary is 3535 and 462 people died. These numbers are significantly lower than in many Western and Southern European countries, we can’t tell why but think it’s because Hungary was literally locked down very early, on the 16th of March.

We still don’t know when it will be safe to travel again but can’t wait to open our borders to all travellers when it’s safe again!!

Don’t forget, Budapest is waiting for you and of course I won’t stop offering virtual tours:

In some countries the statistics are showing that we might be close to the end of the first shock of the pandemic and governments started considering the options of lifting restrictions. This also means that sometime in the not too far future we can all travel again, however, we’ll be more cautious than we’ve ever been (as of today visitors not obliged to 14 days of self quarantine are the ones who come for business and their country of residence is Czech Republic, Poland, Germany, Austria, Slovakia and South Korea).

I’m getting inquiries for tours for the end of summer – beginning of autumn and we’re discussing the different options of safe touring.

One thing is for sure, travelling in large groups will not be an option as long as we are still fighting the virus. That’s why private tours are better options, as it’s only you and your family members or friends in a small group, so it’s easier to keep social distancing.

We have discussed the topics below with my travellers but feel free to let me know if you have more ideas, I’m putting together the 2020 Special Edition Tours in the next couple of weeks:

• Tours shouldn’t be longer than 3-4 hours
• Only walking and driving tours will be available, we don’t use public transportation
• Travellers, tour guide and driver are required to wear a mask for the length of the tour
• No inside visit of the monuments, attractions, museums
• No coffee or lunch break together
• Maximum number of travellers on the tour shouldn’t exceed 2 or 4 people

As of today there are 3035 COVID-19 cases in Hungary and 351 people died.

Today is a very special day, because we’re moving to the second phase of easing out of restrictive measures. That might be the light at the end of the tunnel we’ve been hoping for for over two months now.

The good news is that life is slowly returning to normal in the countryside, restaurants and cafés reopened, movement restrictions remained in force only in Budapest and Pest county.

Also, Budapest Airport is gradually restarting passenger services and more and more airlines restart their flights to and from Budapest, mostly from other European cities. You’ll find here all details about the rules of entry to Hungary.

I’d like to finish this post with a personal note. May is my favourite month and I think that’s when Budapest is the most beautiful. I really miss real tours and I’m so sorry that travellers from all around the world can’t see this beautiful city with all the bright colours and lights. I’m showing you as much as possible on my ON-THE-SPOT tours, feel free to ask for a customised tour!